Gnudi with Wild Mushrooms

Gnudi (new-dee) may sound like the description for a magazine featuring the scantily clad, but in fact it refers to naked pasta.  It is like the inside of a cheese ravioli without its protective outer layer.  Gnudi was just recently introduced to me while I was browsing ideas on how to make gnocchi, the delicious Italian potato dumpling.  Gnudi is the same idea as gnocchi, but with fresh ricotta instead of potatoes.  The result of a little love and patience is a wonderfully pillowy pasta-like dumpling that melts in your mouth.

Gnudi:
1 cup Parmigiano-Reggiano
1 egg plus one yolk
1 lb fresh whole milk ricotta
1 teaspoon salt
2 teaspoons pepper
red pepper flakes to taste
1/2 cup white flour
2 cups semolina flour

Parmigiano-Reggiano, the king of cheese, is not what you find in the green shakers at the market.  This regal cheese is much more flavorful and is actually protected under law.  Look for the stamp of authenticity on its rind to ensure it was made and aged in Northern Italy.  I always feel as though I have a secret prize in my bag when coming home from the market with a giant wedge of this nutty, grainy cheese.  I also cannot say "Parmigiano-Reggiano" without adding a thick Italian accent.  In this recipe, I use it in the gnudi batter and also as a finishing salty touch to the dish.

The easiest way to grate Parmesan is to pulse it in a food processor.  You can also do this by hand.

Whisk all the ingredients except the flour until fluffy.  Then, add the flour one tablespoon at a time until the batter can form slightly sticky balls.  Coat the bottom of a large glass dish with semolina flour.  Scoop balls out using a tablespoon or small ice cream scoop and lay in the dish.

Then, cover the gnudi in more semolina and start another layer.  Repeat this until all the batter is rolled.  Cover the entire pan with the remaining semolina and place in the refrigerator overnight.

When you are ready to unearth the gnudi from their semolina grave, dig them out and let them sit at room temperature for about an hour.

The gnudi will look misshapen, but that is what gives them beautiful, rustic character.  Letting them sit out for a bit allows them to come to room temperature, making for a gooey inside with a slight bite on the outside.  Now, boil a large pot of salted water and drop the dumplings in until they float to the top.  Gently retrieve them with a slotted spoon and lay them to rest on a paper towel lined plate.  From here, you can sauce them any way you please.  A vibrant marinara, or a simple brown butter sauce would work beautifully.  I chose to coat them in a rich truffled wild mushroom sauce.

Truffled Wild Mushroom Sauce

1 1/2 cups wild mushrooms (I used shiitake and portobellos)

1 tablespoon olive oil

2 tablespoons butter

2 cloves garlic, minced

1 tablespoon flour

1 cup chicken stock or white wine

1 cup half and half or milk

salt and pepper

1 tablespoon white truffle oil

1/4 cup Parmigiano-Reggiano

My friend Travis and I were recently in Denver and had dinner at a fantastic little Italian restaurant called Luca D'Italia.  Their signature dish is a decadent fusilli pasta with mushrooms and truffle cream.  Truffle oil has become widely used, and you can find it on anything from fries to pizza on restaurant menus across the country.  I usually shy away from anything truffled, as I feel it is overly used and overpowers the other flavors in the dish instead of enhancing them.  We took a chance and ordered this signature dish.  After one bite, I glanced at Travis and could only see the whites of his eyes as he was savoring every exquisite sensation happening in his mouth.  I immediately promised him I would try and recreate the sauce at home.  I have a desire ingrained in my soul to make those I love happy through delicious food and drink, and this definitely was making him blissful.  The recipe here is a bit lightened up from that rich heavy cream sauce we had at the restaurant.  If you are feeling luxurious, you can substitute the chicken stock and milk for 2 cups heavy cream.

Saute the mushrooms over medium-high heat in the butter and oil.  Add pepper.  After about 5 minutes, add garlic and a pinch of salt.  Immediately add flour and stir for one minute.  Whisk in stock and milk slowly until combined.  Once the sauce comes to a bubble, add truffle oil and cheese.  Taste for seasoning.  Gently add gnudi to the sauce, using a rubber spatula to fold the sauce over the delicate dumplings.

Finish with a little sprinkle of Parmesan cheese.  I hope you will summon your inner Italian voice and make this fun and versatile dish in your home.